THE SARTORIAL CLUB’S BLACK TIE MASQUERADE

Ahead of going to Pitti Uomo, I conducted some primary research into the events surrounding the trade show itself. I discovered a host of fringe events, including a masquerade black tie ball at the start of the week, before Pitti Uomo each January, hosted by a group known as The Sartorial Club (TSC).

I reached out through Instagram and felt welcomed straight away. After going back and forth with the organisers and discovering more about the amazing network of people and enthusiasts they have at TSC, I figured it could be beneficial for me to join the club and have a network to lean on, should I need it, during my first time at Pitti Uomo in Florence.

The Sartorial Club is a group of like minded individuals who are either in the fashion industry or simply passionate about tailoring. A mixed gender group from all walks of life, from brokers to influencers and even bespoke tailors; TSC was founded by two women who wanted to create an inclusive space to appreciate the art of dressing well and celebrate craftsmanship. Membership is paid annually, giving access to exclusive events and benefits worldwide.

Having already booked my flights to Florence and paid for my hotel, my next step was choosing what to wear on each day of my trip. It was whilst planning my outfits for the week that I realised I no longer had appropriate attire for black tie!

For context, I had a rather cheap polyester “tux” some years ago but had since lost enough weight for it to no longer fit me. Luckily, I had made the decision to donate this outfit some time ago, making this the perfect opportunity to lean on my local business links in the Manchester area.

I asked around for recommendations of what to do, as the event description only required masks as the compulsory component of my outfit. However, I had seen plenty of footage and pictures from last season’s masquerade and wanted to make the most of this opportunity to look and feel a bit like James Bond!

I found a fantastic pair of patent leather Oxfords from Loake that matched my budget. Having had two pairs of Loake boots in the past, I knew the shoes would be built to last. Choosing patent leather shoes does limit their use, but it is the most formal approach to a black tie ensemble and really stands out from the crowd. A good second-best option would have been a highly polished black leather Oxford shoe for a more traditional and classic look.

I already owned the appropriate bow tie, shirt, studs, cufflinks, cummerbund, and managed to pick up a rather nice handmade Venetian mask for a relatively good price online, but I was still stuck on the black tie ensemble, also known as a tuxedo!

On my way home from picking up my Loake shoes in Manchester, I decided to swing by to see my friends at Edit Suits Co., a made to measure service based on King Street. As I was explaining my predicament to Joleine, she asked for my measurements and suggested I could use one of the beautiful Scabal midnight fabric tuxedos. I tried on the shawl lapel suit, and the jacket fit perfectly, with the trousers needing only a slight adjustment (just an inch or two) before my flight on Monday.

Scabal is one of the world’s best fabric mills, known for creating a special fabric used mostly for tuxedos called ‘midnight’. This colour and fabric was developed specifically for tuxedos as many black fabrics often appeared brown, green, or yellow under certain artificial lights. It was discovered that having a suit dyed in a deep, dark blue known as midnight blue would actually appear closer to black than black itself. Scabal midnight is renowned for its deep richness in colour, making it a highly sought after fabric. However, there is currently a shortage, meaning it is unavailable to order from Scabal, making it even more desirable! It was the perfect choice, completing the look for my black tie ensemble.

Monday came, my journey went fairly smoothly, and on the night itself, I couldn’t have asked to be welcomed by a nicer group of people. I had actually made a mistake in my calendar and had put the time of the event down one hour earlier (starting at six rather than seven). Upon reflection, I think this was due to a mistake in the location I set in the app, using UK time instead of Florence time. Either way, when I arrived 45 minutes too early, I was greeted by Brian, one of the Sartorial Club members, who kindly let me know the layout of the evening.

I wandered around to find a light bite to eat before the event started at seven, then came back just before to get some help tying my mask. The clock chimed seven, and the doors opened with guests arriving in fleets, all dressed to impress. Drinks were passed around on trays, and soon enough, the party was in full swing.

Throughout the evening, we had small plates, more drinks, and plenty of conversations. Meeting new faces, although hidden by masks, we had an instant connection over our like minded interest in the sartorial world. One of the members was a professional opera singer who gave a stellar performance, accompanied by another member on piano. Denise, one of the co-founders, gave the rundown of the week ahead and handed out awards and welcomed new members of the club.

Finally it was time for the ‘speed dating’ round. At the beginning of the night, we were each given a card with three numbers on it. These numbers related to tables where we were to spend the next 30 minutes talking to members. This is a great way to break the ice and find a group of people you’re comfortable sharing your week at Pitti with. As I was chatting away to so many amazing people from such a mix of backgrounds, I couldn’t help but feel at ease knowing I had found a truly unique group of people.

I was honestly blown away by the kindness and generosity of everyone involved. To those who reached out, thank you. I’m not the type of person to struggle in social settings, but when you enter a room of strangers wearing masks, it can be intimidating. You broke barriers, shared stories, and distilled my heavy dose of imposter syndrome.

As the event came to a close and we were gently ushered from our stunning period venue, mutterings began of where to go next. The overwhelming consensus sounded like “Gillis”.

We walked down the cobbled streets of Florence and arrived in the square that houses Cafe Gilli’s, seemingly the hub of all after parties for the week as you could hear the rabble from around the corner! Suffice to say If you weren’t at the Fiddler’s Elbow or Harry’s Bar, you’re at Gilli’s!

Photo credit to: @creativeimage_studio.it @coller_official